Saturday, April 30, 2011

AN ABUNDANCE OF POTATOES.

 

With a bit of luck I can manage to grow several crops of potatoes each year, planting the first seed potatoes in October with a further planting after Christmas. Potatoes will handle quite rough soil so are a good crop to put into new ground. They are not a deep rooted plant like carrots, which will push down into the soil. Instead, the tubers grow out from the original seed potato. It is necessary to hill them as the plants grow to cover the young tubers. If you keep building up the soil around the stem of the plant they will continue to make fresh tubers in ever increasing layers. This may also be done by creating a support for the soil with rubber tires mounted on rubber tires. This is a great way of cropping for people with limited gardening space. Using this method it is also possible to grow potatoes in the milder winter climates, providing the tops are covered each night against frost.
Potatoes are well suited to growing in furrows which can be flooded with a garden hose and is the way I prefer to grow mine. To get an early start this year I planted two rows of seed potatoes in October amongst the red Flanders poppies in my Remembrance Field at Das Helwig Haus B&B at Glen Aplin on the Granite Belt of southern Queensland.
Potato rows
Potato rows
Three young Koreans came in November to work for me as WWOOFers – Willing Workers on Organic Farms and as the poppies finished flowering they removed them and hilled the potatoes.
Hilled potatoes
Hilled potatoes
Meanwhile I had planted a later patch of potatoes, a different variety, on the opposite corner of the field. My non-organic vegetable farming neighbors when given fresh potatoes in February, asked what chemicals I had used on the crop?
I replied, “None.” One of the secrets to growing good crops of any vegetable is to rotate your crops and never grow potatoes in the same place for at least 3 years. Repetitive growing of the same vegetable in the same ground each year will not only result in depletion of soil nutrients essential to that plant, but also a build up of pests – either leaf feeders or root borers. Potatoes appreciate feeding on rich compost or manures and need plenty of water during the growing season. I prefer to buy fresh seed potatoes each year, rather than use left over shooting potatoes from my pantry to avoid spreading any disease.
A second crop of potatoes.
A second crop of potatoes.
As the leaves ripen up the plants tend to fall over to the side and it is important at that time to ensure the tubers close to the surface are covered with additional earth or a mulch of hay to prevent sunburn and greening. Any potato exposed to the sunlight will acquire green skin. This green portion of the potato is poisonous and any potato showing green should be peeled deeply, or discarded.
Korean Wwoofers digging potatoes
Korean Wwoofers digging potatoes
Here the three Koreans (Ashley, Jack and Jinni) were harvesting Sebago potatoes. Jack is using a brand new stainless steel digging fork, which my father gave me for a Christmas present. The other varieties I grew were Kennebeck and Desiree. Again to avoid possible contamination of my soil, I do not compost my potato greens, but burn them. If it is possible to establish a different place each year where you can burn garden waste and then plant vegetables like melons or pumpkins in the ash, you will be rewarded with excellent crops as the heat destroys the natural pathogens lurking in most soils.
Jack washing the potatoes.
Jack washing the potatoes.
The potatoes were washed, sorted according to size and stored in our cellar room at 8 degrees Celcius.
Stored potatoes
Stored potatoes
I’m sure you know many ways of serving potatoes, but have you ever made your own potato crisps?
  • Choose small to medium potatoes of an even size.
  • Wash potatoes, but don’t peel.
  • Slice the potatoes as thinly as possible. I have a meat slicer which cuts much thinner and neater slices than I could manage with a sharp knife.
    Slicing potatoes.
    Slicing potatoes.
  • Thread the potato slices on to wooden skewers.
  • Sprinkle salt or other flavoring over the potato slices.
  • Suspend three skewers across a microwave safe bowl.
  • Place the bowl in a microwave oven and cook for 7-10 minutes. The time required will depend on the thickness of your slices.
  • Remove from the microwave oven, cool and strip off the skewer.
  • Store in an airtight container for future use as potato crisps.
    Raw, salted potato slices.
    Raw, salted potato slices.

    Cooked potato crisps.
    Cooked potato crisps.
  http://fayhelwig.com/self-sufficiency/green-garden-12/#more-795

The Best Tomatoes for Sauce: San Marzano Tomatoes

 


Ask any chef and they’ll tell you that San Marzanos are the best tomatoes for sauce.
The flesh of San Marzanos is thicker and meatier than other sauce tomatoes, they have fewer seeds, a bolder flavor, and they’re less acidic. The end result? These tomatoes just melt into sauces.
To prep San Marzanos for sauce, you first have to remove the skin. Fill a large pot with water and bring to a boil. Drop in a few San Marzanos (you may have to work in batches) and boil until they’re skins start to blister (about 1-3 minutes). Remove the tomatoes from the water using tongs, a slotted spoon, or a Chinese skimmer and immerse them in a bowl of ice water. Once the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, use your hands to peel off the skins.
Next, chop off the tops of the tomatoes and slice away any tough flesh, bruises, or rot spots. To remove the seeds, cut the tomato in half lengthwise and gently scrape out the seeds using a small spoon or your finger. At this point, the tomatoes are ready to be frozen or canned.
Removing the skins and seeds from San Marzanos makes for an extra velvety sauce. Try using San Marzanos in this simple Garlic Tomato Sauce for pasta or pizza. They’re also perfect in ratatouille.
Look for fresh San Marzano tomatoes at your local farmers market. You can also find canned San Marzanos in specialty stores or larger grocery chains. http://eatdrinkbetter.com/2010/08/10/san-marzano-tomatoes-the-best-sauce-tomato/

Backyard Landscaping on a Budget

Landscaping adds a finished touch to a home like nothing else can. Beautiful hedges, flowering perennials and neatly edged gardens complete the exterior of a home. Landscaping on a budget begins with the knowledge that you'll be doing your own work. Hiring a contractor to beautify your backyard offers a beautiful landscape and an empty wallet. You'll need to arm yourself with knowledge about landscaping, soil preparation and the best plants for your area to create a plan for the ideal backyard landscape.
  1. Creating a Plan

    • Grab a piece of graph paper and sketch out your home exterior, including any permanent features. If you have a plan, you'll be able to control the spending. Backyard landscaping often presents difficulties with design and expense because of the increased amount of space. Focal points can be just about anything from a pool to a special tree or plant, a wooden deck or patio. Choosing a center point helps with symmetrical design, as well as limiting the expense of plants and shrubs.
      Choosing a few types of plants and scattering these throughout the landscape creates a sense of unity to the backyard. In the same vein, choose three to four colors of flowering annuals or perennials for a sense of continuity. Vary heights of plants in a single garden with tallest at the center or back, working by height to the lowest plants in the front. This gives the illusion of many plants in the garden. If you've got a fence, don't assume you need to line the fence with a long rectangular garden. Save money and create a pleasing landscape by simply creating an irregularly shaped garden in the corner of the fence.

    Choosing Plants

    • Variegated hosta.
      Plants often overwhelm new landscapers with choices and decisions. Landscaping tends to be a rather permanent addition to your home, so you want to do it right the first time. Consult with your local garden center for recommendations before making any purchases. Always read the attached information tab on every plant for sale. These cards provide planting information, sunlight requirements and watering recommendations. Save money and time by doing research to choose the best plants for your backyard.
      Annuals offer immediate color but only last one season. Perennials and shrubs bloom year after year and often expand in size. This expansion often results in thinning, which creates more plants that will need a home in your backyard. Keep propagation in mind when initially purchasing plants. Plants can be quite expensive, but it lessens the punch a little when you realize you'll get more than one plant out of a gallon pot.
      Choose plants that grow best in your area and limit the number of chosen plants. Although your garden might seem sparse the first year, new growth and expansion will use up those blank spaces quickly. Add any choices to your backyard design plan. Make sure you take into account any soil conditions, as well as shade/nonshade areas before making any plant purchases.

    Soil Preparation, Mulch and Edging

    • Consider any purchased plant an investment that needs a proper place to thrive. Most likely, your backyard is unconsolidated fill dirt put in place by the builder. Soil preparation will help protect your investment and should be figured into your landscape budget. Add soil conditioners, such as peat moss and compost, by simply dumping these products into the garden area. Turn over the top 12 inches of soil with a rototiller or by hand.
      Mulch adds a finished look to any landscape and aids your plants by retaining water. Mulch has the added benefit of suppressing weed growth. Bags of mulch cost about $3 (sometimes less on sale), and you just can't beat this addition for creating a groomed look to your backyard. This investment also helps over time as the mulch breaks down and enriches the soil. Edging around the gardens also adds a finished look to the backyard and helps retain the mulch inside the garden. Garden borders come in many materials, such as plastic, wood or more expensive stone.   http://www.ehow.com/way_5272329_backyard-landscaping-budget.html

How to Landscape on a Small Budget

How to Landscape on a Small Budgetthumbnail
Plan carefully to make the most of your landscape dollars. Sketch out your yard and include the contours of your home along with any patios or decks, walkways, driveways, paths, flower beds and retaining walls. Add features you want, and then split the project into phases so you can complete a little at a time to minimize the amount of money you need to spend all at once. Consider setting up a consultation with a landscape architect and having her look over your sketch. You can get advice for much less than you would spend if you had the plans drawn up from scratch.

Difficulty:
Moderate

Instructions

    • 1
      Use gravel, concrete pavers or poured concrete for the most inexpensive paths and walkways. If using gravel, select small pieces of angular gravel (labeled "1/4-inch minus") for the least amount of slippage underfoot. Avoid pea gravel or other smooth stones. Attack weeds as you see them pop up.
    • 2
      Furnish existing decks and patios with inexpensive seating and occasional tables. Check big box stores, thrift stores and yard sales. Deals can often be found at summer's end. Dress up the area with a thrifty outdoor rug, some plants in containers, and perhaps some garden-style wall art. Add tiki torches, outdoor lamps, post lights or candle lanterns for evening ambiance.
    • 3
      Add a do-it-yourself water feature. Liners, pumps and fountains are available at home improvement stores and can easily be added to your yard, deck or patio. Create a retaining wall wherever you need one using textured concrete blocks made for this purpose. A trellis or arbor is another easy addition and can be enchanting and create privacy.
    • 4
      Sharpen lawn mower blades approximately every six weeks during summer months so the lawn stays healthy. Use thin layers of chopped-up grass clippings and some slow-release nitrogen to fertilize the lawn and help keep it green. Consider planting fescue seed, which is drought-resistant and doesn't need a lot of fertilizer to flourish.
    • 5
      Outline new flower beds with a garden hose to achieve contemporary curved shapes, and then install edging to define the beds and keep the lawn from encroaching. Enrich the soil properly with compost and other add-ins according to the advice of nursery personnel or the cooperative extension office in your area. Mulch with organic materials such as pine needles or shredded leaves, and check with your city to see if it will provide free mulch. You can apply these over layers of newspaper for extra weed control.
    • 6
      Invest most of your plants budget in trees, shrubs and flowers native to your area since these are most likely to flourish. Plant perennials and put in fewer than you think you need. You can divide them next year and fill in the beds then. Start plants indoors from seed, purchase plants and trees in late summer when they are on sale.
      It often pays to invest in the biggest trees you can afford since they grow slowly and larger ones have much more impact on a landscape. However, investigate carefully. With some species, smaller trees are set back less by transplanting than larger trees, and will actually grow large faster.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7591368_landscape-small-budget.html

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Organizing Seed Packets

Hey guys!! I’m so glad you could join me, Jill, Amy, and Megan for another awesome Homestead Barn Hop! It has been so much fun visiting everyone’s homesteads and seeing what you’ve all been up to! Keep the great ideas coming!

This weekend I’ve been working on organizing my entirely-too-many seed packets. For a newbie like me, it’s hard to keep track of what to plant when, what to start indoors, what to direct seed, etc. when all I can see is a stack of seed packets in a tub. Sorting through them one-by-one trying to figure it all out just wasn’t working for me. I needed a better system.
So, I searched the house and found a plastic storage container with a lid that I thought would work perfectly for my project. Using large index cards, I made monthly dividers to file the seed packets under.
Next, I went through my stash of seeds and sorted them into groups: produce, herbs, and flowers.
Garden Produce Seeds
Starting with the fruits and veggies, I looked up each plant to find out when was the best time to plant that particular seed in my area. I also noted whether it should be started indoors, and what that start date was, or if it should be direct seeded into the garden. Once I knew when I needed to worry about dealing with that pack of seeds, I could file it under the correct month.
So, for instance, in March I have: spinach, lettuce, swiss chard, carrots, and parsnips.
On the back of each index card I also have written which seeds should go under that month, and whether they should be direct sown or started indoors, plus any other helpful tips I may want to remember.
Herb Seeds
Next, I worked on sorting my cooking and medicinal herbs. I’ll file them by month as well, though most of them are to be planted at about the same time- after the danger of frost. Some are to be started indoors (which I probably should have already done a couple of weeks ago), so I’ll get on that this week. I’m researching the herbs more thoroughly though, since the majority of them are perennials and will only need to be planted once. I’ve been looking each one up, determining when to plant, how to plant, and where to plant (full sun/part shade), and how tall they will grow.
I’m charting what I’m finding about each plant, so that I can map out where I will put them. I’m also writing any specifics about that plant on the seed packet so I won’t lose the information. I’ll file them away in my box once I’m done.
Flower Seeds
In the wipes container in the back of the box is where I have all of my flower seeds. This will be the first year I’ve even bothered with flowers. Now that I know how important they are for attracting pollinators though, I don’t wanna be without them! Plus… they’re pretty. And some of them make great companion plants for the veggies in my garden.
I’m not filing them by month since pretty much all of them are to be sown outdoors after the last frost, though some needed to be started indoors, in which case I’ve begun doing so.
I’m thinking this will be a great way for me to stay on top of things and not fall behind. It’s easy to miss planting something, or get a late start, when it isn’t laid out nicely for you.
Do you organize your seed packets in any particular way? I’d love to know what you’ve found to work best for you!
If you’ve done something constructive this week, learned something new, or tried a new recipe, be sure to link up below and share what you’ve been up to! It’s always fun hopping from homestead to homestead for even more inspiration!
  http://newlifeonahomestead.com/2011/03/mondays-homestead-barn-hop-organizing-seed-packets/

Blossom End Rot!

 


Here is a picture of a tomato with blossom end rot. (although since peppers are in the same family as tomatoes they can get it as well and just as easy)

Symptoms can occur at any stage of development in the tomato. But it seems most common, when the tomato is one-third or half of its full size. The name sorta says it all, it starts only at the blossom end of the tomato. Starting with small water-soaked spots, which get bigger then turns dark quickly as the fruits develop. The spot may get big enough to cover one third or half of the entire tomato's surface! Basically at that point the fight is over, and that tomato is a goner. I usually pick them and toss them away.
If you have seen this tomato sickness, if you have it or had it last year. You know that it usually does not just effect 1 tomato on a plant. It was probably in the majority of your entire crop, and up to 90% of the tomatoes on each plant. The severity can vary, from very bad to maybe just a few bad tomatoes.
I personally have seen them both. I started out several years ago with just a small problem, but over the years it grew to almost taking my entire crop. That is when I decided to learn all about this disease. And I found a simple solution.
Now I could go over the long drawn out reasons of why, and all of that jazz. But it is just a lot of long words and yada yada. Simply said here is "easy" explanation, which probably wont do the disease justice. Basically the tomato plant is having a hard time getting adequate water and nutrition to the plant. Part of that could be due to clay soil. Soil can always be the culprit. Sandy soils will have the same effect. Could be periods of drought, then lots of water. Could be to much water, or inconsistent watering. But for some reason your plant isn't able to grow a good root system, thus making the plants susteptiable to disease.
Solution-
If you have clay soil can I suggest you add lots of organic material? Clay soil is a common problem in vegy gardens. Clay soil just isn't great for growing, even weeds sometimes. The same can be said of Sandy soil. So add lots and Lots of organic material. Every Year. But that may only just start to solve this problem of Blossom end rot. Although I would hope it would end the problem.
Next make sure that you are consistent in watering. Make a schedule and stick to it. Now, I am not suggesting that you become a Nazi. Just water every other day on a drip system for 15 minutes, simple. In the real heat of the summer, I water every day. But I know lots of people that don't. Just watch your plants, don't let them wilt. (If they are wilting, re-evauate your watering entirely) Other watering suggestions for tomatoes and most all garden plants is, don't water over head. Meaning turn off the rain bird. I will explain more on that in my next post.
If you have taken care of everything else, meaning. Your soil is in good shape, watering is handled and you are taking the opportunity to possibly fertilize with a simple 4-12-4 or 5-20-5 fertilizer, every other week but still have a problem. Add lime. Simple powder lime from the garden department should end this problem entirely. Lime isn't bad for the body (through tomatoes) is organic and just promotes healthy tomatoes. Every year I add 1 tablespoon to the hole that I put my new tomato starts into. I would rather not bother worrying about whether blossom end rot will happen at all.
Several years ago, when I had blossom end rot for the last time. I added lime to the top of the soil next to the tomato, (because I didn't at the beginning of the year) then worked it in around the tomato. Watered as usual. I also plucked all the effected tomatoes off and chucked them. I ended up with a substantially smaller crop because of what I had lost. But everything started to grow 100% rot free after that. I cant promise that will be your experience, but if you remember: Soil, Water, Fertilizer, Lime I think you will have amazing tomatoes every year!
Happy Planting!

I am determined to explain

 

 


This will be a short post, but very important. I am putting the SMACK down on my kids with the house today, so I need to put my attention there. But at the same time, this is THEE MOST asked question I get at the greenhouse or at home from anyone about tomatoes!

What is the difference between Determinate & In-Determinate Tomatoes? The answer is simple, and I am going to give you a "cheat" so you wont forget.Both of the terms are simply how the tomato will grow and produce. So first ask yourself, "What am I buying this tomato for?" Are you canning, or just eating? This is important when purchasing one of the two different kinds of tomatoes. Here is the reason...
Determinate tomatoes will all grow and ripen close to the same time, within a few weeks. Meaning the plant grows to a certain size, then grows the tomatoes, then they ripen. Pretty much that is the end of that tomato plant. These are the best tomatoes to use if you are canning.
Indeterminate tomatoes grow and fruit and grow and fruit. The plant continues to grow throughout the growing season and produce tomatoes. Never finishing growing, never finishing fruiting. Pretty much that will continue to frost.. These tomatoes will often ripen earlier than Determinate varieties. These are the tomatoes you want if you are just eat'n, mak'n a little fresh salsa & not canning.

Now for the "cheat" I use. I say, the Determinate tomatoes are DETERMINED to all be ripe at the same time. Left over is the Indeterminate and they just don't care. How easy is that?
Next time you head to the Greenhouse to pick a tomato plant, I hope this will help with your selection. I will spent the next few post talking more about tomatoes. I will add my favorite varieties in the coming posts. I get so many questions about Tomatoes, seems like I should spend some time on them. For right now, I think I will head out to my garden, grab a nice juicy tomato and get back to the house.
Happy Planting...    http://gardeninggoodies.blogspot.com/search/label/Tomato